{"id":250,"date":"2009-03-18T12:34:24","date_gmt":"2009-03-18T16:34:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/?p=250"},"modified":"2022-01-12T08:25:58","modified_gmt":"2022-01-12T13:25:58","slug":"day-18-montmartre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 18&#8211;Montmartre"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Ok, so maybe it was a little silly. We went to a 10:20 p.m. movie, way past our bedtime,\u00a0<em>Dans Paris\u00a0<\/em>(&#8220;Two Days in Paris&#8221;) which\u00a0cost us 14 euros (being over 60, I am generally\u00a0<em>tarif reduit\u00a0<\/em>here) and which we could have rented from Blockbuster in Toronto for about $4. We were the only patrons at the theatre. There was no popcorn on offer. The movie was mostly in French, with no English sub-titles, although there were French sub-titles when the characters were speaking English. On the other hand, I do like Julie Delpy. And Jessica recommended it.<\/p>\n<p>Meanwhile, we must becoming part of the local scene as our newsagent chatted with me today. He showed me that he had put the IHT on the top rack but, because I am tall, it wouldn&#8217;t be a problem.<\/p>\n<p>We had two new students in class today. An\u00a0<em>au pair\u00a0<\/em>from Portland, Oregon and\u00a0 Ph. D. student from Italy. We discussed\u00a0<em>l&#8217;integration<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>I see David Dodge says that we are in for a deep and prolonged recession that will fundamentally alter capitalism. I couldn&#8217;t agree with him more.<\/p>\n<p>Here, in Paris,\u00a0<em>il fait beau<\/em>.\u00a0We went to Montmartre. (Sorry, Gord, we resume the architectural Paris on the weekend.)<\/p>\n<p>When I was a boy, maybe 6 or 7, I often looked at\u00a0a litho, probably 1 of 5,000, which we had hanging in our home\u00a0of the Place du Tertre in Montmartre, although I had no idea at the time what it was. I just knew I wanted to\u00a0find it in real life. In particular, it had a cerulean blue splotch just off-centre which I found entrancing. I am not even sure that my parents had ever been to Paris or how they acquired the piece. I just knew that I found it beguiling and needed eventually to find my way to Paris.\u00a0I still have that picture\u00a0even after 100 moves. Anyway, being at Place du Tertre takes me back 50+ years to my childhood. Even the reality can&#8217;t diminish the memory, despite Paul Simon&#8217;s haunting line &#8220;Everything looks worse in black and white.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>While I think our attempts a blending in as Parisians are getting better (see above), I can&#8217;t think that we are quite there, the F-A-T factor aside.\u00a0 For instance, we already have 3 ID cards: our Navigo (Metro) pass, our gym membership and the Alliance Fran\u00e7aise card, all with photo.<\/p>\n<p>Nevertheless, two things give us away: I tend to take photos although in Montmartre, where there were throngs of people (maybe because of March break?) this wouldn&#8217;t be exceptional and because of certain receding (!) hair issues, I have to wear a baseball cap. I might have gotten away with the latter but on the way out, it was one of the last things I packed and I grabbed my JFK Library cap with an American flag logo on front. Not the best choice, I know, but I couldn&#8217;t find much else and Sandy told me today that she wouldn&#8217;t have let me wear my Stratford &#8220;Music Man&#8221; cap at all. So better than nothing as it&#8217;s been sunny, so I&#8217;ve put away my\u00a0<em>bonnet\u00a0<\/em>and resorted to the JFK,\u00a0<em>malheuresement, mais pas de choix<\/em>. I am certainly not going to get a cap that says &#8220;Paris,&#8221; that&#8217;s for sure.<\/p>\n<p>Went to Caf\u00e9 de Flore for our people watching today, after buying\u00a0<em>Le Monde\u00a0<\/em>and a few art magazines.<\/p>\n<p>We had dinner at a fairly new place in the unremarkable\u00a015th arr., not far from here but an odd place to find, called La Beurre Noisette, 68, rue Vasco-de-Gama. To say it was terrific would be an understatement. The presentation, inventiveness, taste and service\u00a0were beyond description.\u00a0While not inexpensive, we&#8217;ve spent way more money for much less enjoyment than this\u00a0not-to-be-missed place.<\/p>\n<p>I must add, as I&#8221;ve been meaning to do, that no one dresses here for anything, at least any thing or place that we&#8217;ve seen. Jeans, no problem. No jackets, no problem. Again, we&#8217;ve been going to caf\u00e9s, bistros, brasseries and the like, but still. The most dressed we &#8216;ve seen was at Palais Garnier.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 33%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-250 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_384\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_384-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-252\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-252'>\n\t\t\t\tSacre-Coeur\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_385\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_385-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-253\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-253'>\n\t\t\t\tSt. Pierre church around the corner, one of the oldest in Paris.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_386\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_386-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-254\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-254'>\n\t\t\t\tPlace du Tertre\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_387\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_387-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-255\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-255'>\n\t\t\t\tAnother view. I don&#8217;t know the woman in front.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_388\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_388-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-256\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-256'>\n\t\t\t\tSupposedly the word &#8220;bistrot&#8221; (Russian for &#8220;quickly&#8221;) originated in this cafe.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_389\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_389-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-257\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-257'>\n\t\t\t\tThe cabaret Lapin Agile, right across the street from the Montmartre vineyard.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_390\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_390-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-258\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-258'>\n\t\t\t\tRestaurant Le Consulat Restaurant. Tres bilinque, no?\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_391\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_391-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-259\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-259'>\n\t\t\t\tRestaurant Moulin de la Galette. Renoir painted his famous &#8220;Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette&#8221; at a dance hall next door, no longer there.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_392\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_392-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-260\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-260'>\n\t\t\t\tVan Gogh lived here for a few years, plaque on left of door.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_393\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_393-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-261\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-261'>\n\t\t\t\tThis wall mural in a little garden at Abbesses Metro station has written &#8220;I Love You&#8221; in over 300 languages.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_394\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_394-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-262\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-262'>\n\t\t\t\tOne of the last remaining Guimard Metro entrances with original colour. Apparently, they changed the shade of most of the others to a lighter green as this colour looked too much like the German military uniforms. I don&#8217;t know the guy in the photo. Not sure I want to, either.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/18\/day-18-montmartre\/114_395\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/114_395-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-263\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-263'>\n\t\t\t\tLe Beurre Noisette which I think translates into Little Bit of Butter, idiomatically.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ok, so maybe it was a little silly. We went to a 10:20 p.m. movie, way past our bedtime,\u00a0Dans Paris\u00a0(&#8220;Two Days in Paris&#8221;) which\u00a0cost us 14 euros (being over 60, I am generally\u00a0tarif reduit\u00a0here) and which we could have rented from Blockbuster in Toronto for about $4. We were the only patrons at the theatre. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[2],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/250"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=250"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/250\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1613,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/250\/revisions\/1613"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=250"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=250"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=250"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}