{"id":129,"date":"2009-03-09T07:00:21","date_gmt":"2009-03-09T11:00:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/?p=129"},"modified":"2022-01-12T08:25:58","modified_gmt":"2022-01-12T13:25:58","slug":"day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/09\/day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 9&#8211;Alliance Francaise and the Ballet at Palais Garnier"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>As I was walking back from the gym, it occurred to me that as much as we romaticize it, Paris is still a working city. People opening shops, taking their kids to school and going to work. I know this isn&#8217;t a profound thought but, compared to Toronto, it does have this overlay of beauty that makes it hard to appreciate that there is a quotidien life here. It&#8217;s probably heightened, now that we are staying here, maybe because we aren&#8217;t engaged in it except\u00a0through observation.<\/p>\n<p>We ended up going to the Alliance Fran\u00e7aise today for testing. Let me say, it was daunting! I told the evaluating<em>professeur\u00a0<\/em>that I wanted to read Camus&#8217;s\u00a0<em>La Chute\u00a0<\/em>in French. She thought Georges Simenon (mystery writer) was probably more my speed, so I am registered in the B1 French oral program, Sandy in another program altogether. Between us, given her greater appreciation of the language coupled with my shamefully forward\u00a0utterances of a language I&#8217;ve never studied formally, we&#8217;d make close to one whole Francophone. Anyway, we&#8217;ll see what a few weeks of classes does for us.<\/p>\n<p>For lunch, we went to Caf\u00e9 Varenne, 36 rue de Varenne, at the corner of rue du Bac, a place where they have inscribed the names of regulars on the wall (W Wells, of IHT and Patricia Wells fame, #6). It&#8217;s also apparently a favoured hangout of Ina Garten, the Barefoot Contessa herself, although she wasn&#8217;t there today. It was a very busy place,\u00a0friendly and efficient service, full of French folk enjoying their\u00a0<em>d\u00e9jeuner<\/em>\u00a0but\u00a0really\u00a0mediocre cuisine, except the desserts.(Maybe we ordered badly?) \u00a0Reasonably priced, though, even with a\u00a0cool, lively\u00a0Saint-Amour. It was, however, not mentioned by Pudlo (or Fran\u00e7ois Simon, whose website we have also been checking), so we might have known better.<\/p>\n<p>We\u00a0went to a modern ballet (&#8220;Le Parc&#8221; with Emilie Cozette, principal)\u00a0tonight at Palais Garnier, the more\u00a0ornate of the two opera houses in Paris,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.operadeparis.fr\/\">www.operadeparis.fr<\/a>. When Charles Garnier was designing it, it turned out that the location was over a water-bed that couldn&#8217;t be drained or filled, so Garnier had to build a water-tank to hold the water which is where the subterranean Phantom of the Opera myth arose. This is an exquisite building but the view from the back of some of the stall in the upper balconies isn&#8217;t all that conducive to watching anything, let alone ballet or opera, but\u00a0it was all I could afford the first time I was there (about 25 years ago). Our seats were better this time around. The Palais Garnier\u00a0also has a Marc Chagall\u00a0<em>faux\u00a0<\/em>ceiling, itself very beautiful although the photos I&#8217;ve attached don&#8217;t do it justice.<\/p>\n<p>As for the ballet, well, not particularly my thing especially when set to Mozart, maybe my least favourite composer. (As Glenn Gould put it, &#8220;The problem isn&#8217;t that Mozart died too young but that he lived too long.&#8221;) Anyway, it was better than I expected, given my low expectations,\u00a0sexy in a stylized way although I didn&#8217;t mind the diaphanous gown segments.\u00a0As part of conjugal harmony, I\u00a0had agreed to go, kind of reparations for the times I have dragged Sandy through\u00a0innuerable, interchangeable\u00a0vineyards and wine shops all over France and\u00a0California. The audience loved the ballet, though, Sandy, too. I did mostly as well, at least in between bouts snoozing.<\/p>\n<p>The best part was that it was only an hour and a half long&#8211;very civilized, very French, still time for dinner, especially when it\u00a0began at 7:30. Afterwards, we stopped in at our local, Caf\u00e9 Doucet, 41 rue Vaugirard, for a<em>croque monsiuer\u00a0<\/em>and salad. (Need those greens.) Since we were the last patrons in the place, it felt like we were in the Edward Hopper &#8220;Nighthawks&#8221; painting, French-style.<\/p>\n<p>It was a lovely spring day today but by about 5, it got overcast. Still no umbrellas. Must attend to that tomorrow but I have my first art lesson at 10.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 33%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-129 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/09\/day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier\/105_295\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/105_295-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-131\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-131'>\n\t\t\t\tCafe Varenne\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/09\/day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier\/105_296\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/105_296-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-132\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-132'>\n\t\t\t\tBefore the ballet, the Palais Garnier\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/09\/day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier\/105_297\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/105_297-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-133\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-133'>\n\t\t\t\tThe grand staircase.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/09\/day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier\/105_298\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/105_298-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-134\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-134'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Chagall ceiling.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/09\/day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier\/105_299\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/105_299-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-135\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-135'>\n\t\t\t\tThe balconies behind the orchestra. I have no idea who those people are.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/09\/day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier\/105_300\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/105_300-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-136\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-136'>\n\t\t\t\tThe front facade, after the Opera.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/2009\/03\/09\/day-9-alliance-francaise-and-the-ballet-at-palais-garnier\/105_301\/'><img width=\"190\" height=\"140\" src=\"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/105_301-190x140.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-137\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-137'>\n\t\t\t\tReally late for us (10ish) at Cafe Doucet.\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl>\n\t\t\t<br style='clear: both' \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As I was walking back from the gym, it occurred to me that as much as we romaticize it, Paris is still a working city. People opening shops, taking their kids to school and going to work. I know this isn&#8217;t a profound thought but, compared to Toronto, it does have this overlay of beauty [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[2],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=129"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1621,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129\/revisions\/1621"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=129"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=129"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/forbesgrant.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=129"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}